THE BLOG © www.rt66pix.com
Above: Photographer Frank Gifford with AMERICA (SOLARIZED)
All images below appear full-size in one or more galleries. Permission is granted to link. Written material may be quoted or reprinted with appropriate credit.
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HERE'S THE ON-RAMP
If you're just surfing--WELCOME! You're about to explore and celebrate the American experience in images from Route 66 and many other places. This is the largest site of its kind, offering unique fine art photographs and photo-based artwork enjoyed in 150 countries.
The overarching theme is America--past and present--along historic transportation arteries including Rt 66, the National (Cumberland) Road, Lincoln Highway, Erie Canal, Natchez Trace, Pony Express route and historic railroads. Capsule histories are on the "Roads" page.
There are also photo galleries for twenty cities including Denver, Memphis, Natchez, New Orleans, New York, San Francisco and Santa Fe. Other images capture American life in out-of-the-way places.
Looking is free at full-screen size and there's even a slideshow mode. We don't require registration, use pop-ups, send spam, or make you squint at a stamp-sized image.
Most photographs are available for sale or licensing--ordering is encrypted and secure. Images appearing automatically on the Home Page are in the gallery "Home Page Slideshow."
The site is best viewed under controlled lighting on a laptop or desktop--not on a cellphone. If the image above appears lit by fluorescent bulbs instead of golden sunshine, your device has an improper White Balance. Some can be adjusted.
While 99.99% of the site is suitable for children and the workplace, a few images feature alternate lifestyles, obscene signs or gestures, partial nudity, beggars, public drunkenness etc. Most are from the city galleries. I believe these photographs are compelling and may offer teachable moments.
The "Tech" section discusses photographic technique and technology. "Roads" summarizes American transportation corridors and movements. "Preservation" offers successes and failures. And for a refreshing break, test your new-found knowledge in the "Fun!©" section.
Everything is here on the site, not on social media. There's lots to see and enjoy, and you can take your time.
So...Happy Trails and Happy Motoring!
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THIS ART COMES FROM LIFE
Everything on rt66pix.com is first captured on a camera, as this man in a moving Tucker demonstrates. (Although I much prefer my vantage point!)
Images are offered exclusively here as fine art photographs, or given an artistic treatment such as oil painting, watercolor...or even fresco.
Various types of archival-quality prints are offered. The photographs are real, not inkjets, on your choice of high-quality stock, up to 24 x 36-inches (61 x 91 cm), from America's largest professional photography lab. There are also canvas wraps, metal prints, glass prints, standouts, wall clings and personal merchandise. Non-US orders are welcomed and may be handled by pro-lab partners in Canada, Europe or Australia.
The "Shopping Cart" is encrypted and secure. We never run sales or offer coupons etc. The intrusive copyright symbol and website logo watermarks do not appear on prints or merchandise.
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LIFE IN THE TIME OF COVID
This is largely for non-Americans, and it's more a recommendation than a prediction. 2021 may be difficult to impossible for Route 66 tourism and other extended US travel, while 2022 is likely to be a far better year. Here is the current advice from the US Centers for Disease Control:
Stumbling state governments are making matters worse, as they have throughout this crisis. After being slow to implement mask mandates, some governors are now lifting them. In TX, with less than 7% of the population vaccinated and cases rising, masks are now optional. Other states expect anyone crossing their borders to clear extremely high hurdles--even tourists who have protection after receiving both Covid-19 vaccinations. Currently two of the eight Route 66 states ask travelers to self-quarantine.
New Mexico softened its language from "mandatory requirement" to "please" in February:
And here's language from the official CA website. When has a state ever said this?:
In both cases, there is no exception for the vaccinated, although this appears illogical. This group should become the majority around mid-year. NM exempts airline personnel, first responders, the military and their dependents etc. why not the fully vaccinated? The state's Department of Health responds: "The governor's office is working to address future travel exemptions."
Normally state border crossings are non-events, but unnecessary restrictions could doom Route 66 (and other) tourism for a second year. Tourists won't endure lengthy quarantines, they'll ignore them or stay away.
Some states require a fresh negative Covid-19 test result. Other regulations are a crazy-quilt, with severe limits on bar and restaurant capacity which can vary between towns. Mask requirements, and compliance, also vary.
The best advice for non-Americans considering any extended US pleasure trip is to skip 2021 and hope for normal life to resume in 2022. While travel may be possible this year, it does not look to be pleasurable. Route 66 event cancellations emphasize the point.
Even when mass inoculations begin for the under-65 age group, we won't quickly gain the upper hand on this thing. According to a Kaiser Family Foundation survey, 27% of the US public "probably or definitely will not" get the Covid vaccine--although it is free. Among health care personnel, the figure is an incredible 29%. This combined with anti-mask zealots and religious super-spreading events will only prolong the pandemic. Meantime the virus is mutating and one of the new strains may be up to 74% more transmissible.
This helpful illustration clearly explains everything:
The CDC has issued updated guidance that fully-vaccinated people do not need to self-quarantine after Covid-19 exposure. What about after merely crossing a state line, which isn't even a thing? The CDC did not respond to a direct question. A search of the CDC, WebMD, and Mayo Clinic websites (among others) finds nothing to support or justify the practice.
Route 66 is extremely dependent on foreigners, but travelers from many nations are banned because of Covid-19. 2021 looks to be dismal enough for Route 66 (and other) businesses without state governments unnecessarily discouraging protected out-of-state visitors. But that is indeed what's happening...and unfortunately it fits a pattern.
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ROUTE 66 VANDALISM
The cops are too late...and so are you.
Vandals are trashing sections of the Mother Road before the elements even get their chance. The image above is from TX, next to the VW Bug Ranch at Conway mentioned in the EZ66 Guide.
Lonely + Abandoned = Easy Target. This hideosity is at the well-known Twin Arrows site in AZ and, even worse, visible from I-40.
Although new Rt 66 attractions have been added--conveniently near Interstate exits in cities--the original road pictured in books, magazines and on this site is fast disappearing. Collectors and thieves make their negative contributions by snagging historic signs and artifacts. You can't see or photograph what's gone (and first-timers won't notice the disappearance) but there is significantly less to enjoy, especially along the road's western half.
Vandalism hastens and degrades natural decay which can, at times, be fascinating--even beautiful. My Route 66 images were generally taken between 2000-2015 and I believe capture this process at a peak. I extensively photographed the site below before human scum discovered it:
This location in NM (the "Cold Beer" ruin) has now been scarred forever. A stone wall was knocked down so a loser's scribbling would be visible from I-40. The gallery "Route 66: Going Going GONE" samples today's increasingly-grim realities. An expanded essay appears on the Preservation page.
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The fiberglass statue advertises a truck stop in Oklahoma, the former Indian Territory. Maybe the photograph appears silly at first glance because of the incredulous expression, but it summarizes a century of ugly, brutal history.
Many tribes were forced here after Anglo settlers seized their land in the 1800s. Federal might pushed Native Americans into a wilderness at gunpoint and threat of starvation.
I saw the truck before it turned, and thought the FedEx lettering with motion blur in front of the nearly 50-foot (15 m) statue might create a memorable image: "Federal Expulsion." Turns out that is just one potential meaning of the blood-red "Ex." Webster's New Collegiate offers these as well:
Extermination, Expropriation, Exile, Extinct, Ex (former, not current), Exclude/Exclusion, Excrement, Exculpate (clearing US and Anglos of blame), Excuse, Execution/Executioner, Exit, Exodus, Expand/Expansion (Federal), Expatriate (to leave one's own country), Expedition, Expel, Expendable, Expiation (for Anglo actions, seeking atonement etc.), Expletive, Exploit, Express, Expunge, Expurgate, Extenuate/Extenuating, Extort (treaties etc.), Extrude (push out).
This is how Anglos triumphed over Native Americans: bad-faith bargaining, bribery, incomprehensible treaties, smallpox, numerical force and superior weaponry. Plundering palefaces grabbed land, and their offspring reap the benefits to this day. General Andrew Jackson rode his Indian policy of "Leave or Die" to the White House and the front of the $20 bill.
Although you won't see this image in any textbook, it is historically accurate and loaded with meaning.
American Indians got run over by a truck.
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THE REAL THING
While Photoshopping this Route 66 image, I thought I'd seen him on television a long time ago: the father figure on a series set in the past. And I was partly right.
"The Waltons" ran on CBS from 1972-81 and this seems to be father John...except it's not. Actor Ralph Waite died in 2014, five years before the photograph.
This is real life imitating fiction, helped by his windshield and my deja vu. Yet the eternal truths and values from "The Waltons" shine through. Happiness can be you, your little dog and dependable old pickup truck, cruising Route 66 near sunset.
The image also recalls an insensitive 1930s National Association of Manufacturers billboard campaign. With unemployment over 25% and dispossessed Americans becoming migrants forced onto Route 66 in jalopies, a prosperous well-dressed white family...with their little dog...cruises through the Great Depression in a shiny new car.
Perhaps Daddy was the VP for Foreclosures at Peoples Bank and Trust. Or an Account Executive at Foster and Kleiser. Or maybe he acquired wealth (and thus his pretty younger wife Karen) the old-fashioned way...through inheritance. But I digress.
The image "DRIVER & DOG (Rt 66 Sapulpa OK)" appears in several galleries and helps inaugurate a new one: "Happy Happy Happy Happy."
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NEWS & NOTES
. A new gallery is devoted to the art and artistry of crossing a void. "The Beauty of Bridges" offers 400+ selected images from road and city galleries. This soaring structure carrying the two-lane Natchez Trace Parkway in TN easily makes the cut--especially at sunrise in autumn:
. The Little Nugget Diner in Reno NV has permanently closed, yet another victim of Covid-19 (aren't we all). This burger-and-beer joint had been around since 1958. It's a big loss for Reno to have all that well-maintained red neon go dark. But we still have the photos...including this one:
Like much of downtown Reno, the restaurant and adjoining smoke-filled casino (with a pawn shop next door) stayed open 24-hours. A drunken late-night gambler with $10.50 left could gorge on a huge burger platter: a half-pound of ground-up cow on a bun, with a pound of french fries--perhaps swapping a hangover for a heart attack.
For me, it was a great place to photograph. The sign was actually better in daylight, paired with a constant parade of the something for nothing crowd. Images appear in the Opening Page Slideshow, Lincoln Highway galleries and the city gallery for Reno.
. The new gallery "Pacific Coast Highway: Scenery for DAYS!" has 60+ images with many more to come. Although many car commercials are shot along the PCH, this image was not set up--the red Mustang convertible is good luck. So is mid-day sun, accenting the car and open road. Virus precautions have halted my photography here.
. Covid-19 has also halted plans to extensively photograph the Oregon, California, Santa Fe and Mormon Trails. Some locations have been visited for other projects (Pony Express etc.) and since the routes overlapped in places, those 300+ images are in the "Frontier Trails" gallery.
. Another new gallery "Happy Happy Happy Happy" shows spontaneous outbreaks of good times. Just because.
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WISDOM FROM DUMB OLD CARS
The 1959 Cadillac is a monument to...um, excess? Yes, but that's a gross understatement. 'Vulgarity' is the proper term.
And yet 142,000 of these flamboyant finned fantasies were produced and peddled to the upper class. Rich folks are supposed to have good taste, but Cadillac actually increased market share in 1959!
Three cars made up the high-price field back then: GM's Cadillac, Ford's Lincoln and Chrysler's Imperial. The 59 Lincoln was a beast, and the Imperial suffered from company-wide quality problems. So despite towering fins with wacky rocket-exhaust nozzles glowing red, Cadillac's market share rose from 73 to 77%.
And it's not like most people had to buy one. GM's quality was still good in that era, and the 59s didn't have important new features (like cup holders) so keeping the same land yacht for another year and hoping for sanity to return in 1960 was an option. The 58 and 57 Cadillacs weren't unattractive. The sensuous 56, 55 and 54s are classics today.
No reliable information exists about used prices for the 59s a year or two later. But with Cadillac rapidly downsizing fins through the early 60s, perhaps "Buyer's Remorse" resurfaced at trade-in time.
What lessons might a 1959 Cadillac Chrome DeVulgar hold for us today? How about these for starters:
. Adults do foolish things, just like kids.
. They are susceptible to peer-pressure.
. They are easily manipulated by advertising.
. They are seduced by status symbols.
. Some buy at the top of the market, for fins or most anything.
. A few will even Drink the Kool-Aid because an authority figure told them to.
. The rich aren't different and they don't necessarily have better taste. Just more money, or the ability to borrow it. (The less-wealthy bought the bat-wing Chevy or goofy-looking Buick.)
The 1959 Cadillac is a parable in awkwardly-bent steel. A cautionary tale for yesterday, today...and all time. Many folks are easily led, including those near the top.
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A side note: Owners of classic vehicles (I'm not one of them) deserve our thanks for preserving history, often at great personal expense, and passing it on to later generations. 1959 cars are no longer in use, so the only first-hand exposure we have to them is at museums and car shows.
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PROGRESS...AT A PRICE
This scene, photographed for its grace and beauty, also shows what a difference roughly a century can make.
The view is eastward at daybreak from Blaine OH toward Wheeling WV eight miles (13 km) away. The National Road S-bridge in the foreground (restored and open to pedestrians) is from 1828. Reinforced concrete arches in the background carry US 40 up a steep hill (out of view at right) and date from 1933.
In between was a century of tremendous change. We started with hand-made wooden wagons on wood and iron wheels, pulled by oxen, mules or horses over loose stones, dirt and mud. We ended with mass-produced steel automobiles on air-filled rubber tires, pulled by gasoline engines over concrete and asphalt. And what had been a full day's travel was reduced to half-an-hour.
We also got new options. Trains were experimental in 1828, but the dominant travel mode a century later. And flying, a fantasy in 1828, was taking off as a business with scheduled passenger service.
Other examples of progress that are not generally known are below. But first, here's a free limited-time offer from The Donner Party:
. After placing this in a Springfield IL paper, the Donner Party walked alongside wagons from IL to CA. They got a late start (April 14th) and bad directions on a shortcut that wasn't. Many members were trapped the winter of 1846-47 below a snow-clogged CA mountain pass. Some died of starvation...or resorted to cannibalism. But just a generation (23 years) later, they could have taken the train and arrived safely in five-days with meals provided! And infant Isabella Breen, who lived until 1935, could have flown to CA on a scheduled airliner late in her life.
. Oregon Trail pioneer Ezra Meeker (1830-1928) walked 2,000 miles (3,200 km) alongside an ox-drawn wagon in 1852. He drove a car along the Trail in 1915 and flew over it as an airplane passenger in 1924. His speed went from 2 to 100 MPH (3.2 to 161 km/h).
. In 1861 Pony Express riders could have sent telegrams, spanning the long lonely 2,000 miles (3,200 km) in minutes, even as the service was delivering its final letters, which normally took 10-days. A couple of riders could have sent Air Mail letters in their lifetimes--service began in 1918. Transcontinental phone calls were possible by then too.
. Some Model-T drivers on the primitive Lincoln Highway of @1915 lived to travel the modern Interstates beginning in the mid-1950s. Cars also made a rapid improvement. By the Interstate era many had radios, automatic transmissions, V8 engines, power steering, power brakes and tubeless tires. A few even had seat belts and air conditioning.
But now consider the costs of progress:
. When undocumented aliens in the form of Anglo settlers (including my ancestors) first turned up, what is now the continental US was already populated. One scholar estimates 15 million Natives were living in harmony with the land...and had been for generations. Indians outnumbered Anglos until the 1830s. Indians east of the Mississippi River were mainly communal farmers who hunted and fished. On the plains, Natives had familiar hunting grounds and some farmed and fished. But European newcomers generally regarded Natives as savages, obstacles to Manifest Destiny, the God-given right of Protestant settlers (Catholics and others arrived later) to control, subdivide and populate the continent. Europeans brought deadly smallpox plus superior weaponry, and killed or expelled Indians in the name of "progress." Our government, and many of our ancestors, carried out genocide, ethnic cleansing and forced deportation onto reservations--or concentration camps. To coin a phrase: "We got rid of the Indians and named the land Indiana." Many Native Americans were denied US citizenship until 1924, and even then some, along with Blacks, were not allowed to vote.
. Cities rose and many fell along with their transportation corridors. Buffalo NY, Wheeling WV and Natchez MS (along with many others) peaked in importance during the 1800s then plunged. Some bypassed places, like Depew OK along Route 66, never recovered--although the road did just fine. Others, like Madison IN, languished for a century then came back better than before. (Many have separate photo galleries here.)
. Automobiles and paved roads made travel easier and faster early in the 20th century. But thousands of mom-and-pop crossroads stores failed because local folks suddenly had other choices. Little rural stores could not compete on price or selection with big new "chain" stores in newly-accessible cities. Often entire towns suffered from the gravitational pull of a larger place that had everything--including cafes and a movie theater.
. Urban neighborhoods were severed, some were bulldozed, under the promise of slum clearance or "Urban Renewal" often in conjunction with Interstate highway projects. Some recovered, some did not, and some slums (like Larimer Square in Denver) came back and flourished on their own.
(Fact sourcing is available on request. Related material appears on the "Preservation" and "Roads" pages.)
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EYES ON THE (MOTHER) ROAD
Some images are offered only with an artistic treatment. The original photograph is not shown. Here to...uh...illustrate is Rusty the truck driver, the third image from the Home Page Slideshow.
I had long wanted to bring this Santa Rosa NM truckstop mascot "to life" with a close-up showing his 1950s charm. But the original shot languished in my files for 20 months. It's a faded and rusted sign fragment taken in the shade. Pretty dull stuff.
Rusty (my name for him) appears on both sides of this iconic sign. On the often-photographed east side, neon on his face has been destroyed. This shot is from the west side where much of the neon is intact, and where he faces left toward Rt 66.
Using Photoshop on my shadow-free image, I defined the glass tubing against his faded metal skin a few inches away. The result is very different from the original photograph, and I put it on the site as photo-based art.
I then wondered how Rusty would look in a car mirror--flipped horizontally. Perhaps because I had been working close-up to highlight the neon, I was astonished to discover the 66 which had been unseen for six decades! (On-scene, a rearview mirror would faintly capture this.)
Originally the "numbers" were reversed neon loops forming Rusty's eyes and eyebrows with sections between blacked-out. The same tubing outlines his face and extends down to his chin.
Artistic effects make this image work. They bring out something that's real but not intended for viewing, and apparently never before photographed.
And my original? It's back in the files where it belongs. It's not much to look at...and everything's backward.
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ROUTE 66: A (POSSIBLE) RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE
A westbound trip on the Mother Road can be a spiritual journey for those prepared to look beyond literal meanings.
John Steinbeck's Route 66 novel The Grapes of Wrath contains many possible Biblical links, according to scholars. This material is readily available but has not crossed the boundary to Route 66 travel literature. I can't find even a single passing reference to it! This is called a "silo effect" and what follows is a first effort to break it down.
Steinbeck was raised as an Episcopalian and his adult views on religion reflected a great deal of searching. He was exposed to Bible stories from an early age and used them in his works. Googling Bible Grapes of Wrath novel produces a wealth of material from many viewpoints: 1,750,000 at last check.
Here are just three examples. The Biblical Job (pronounced: JOE-bb) and his family become Steinbeck's Joad family. Job/Joad are good people suffering greatly from circumstances beyond their control, and from the former comes the term "Trials of Job." Jesus Christ, a secondary figure in the novel, is mirrored in itinerant preacher Jim Casy. And "grapes of wrath" is from the "Battle Hymn of the Republic" which comes from the final book of the Bible (Revelation 14:19-20).
A westbound trip can also recall the Crucifixion in a mountainous desert. Jesus was on the cross perhaps up to six-hours. That was a typical driving time in the 1930s from the mountainous desert around Oatman AZ and Needles CA, until a return to life with a dramatic green-up nearing the coast or Central Valley. Many migrants drove the desert at night to avoid brutal heat, so greenery would suddenly appear at the start of a new day.
These similarities, and many others noted by scholars, would have occurred to Dust Bowl refugees, at least subconsciously, as they struggled through. Nearly all were raised as Christians, many as fundamentalists who believe every word of the Bible is literally true, and their experience made Route 66 unique among American highways.
Some of this appears in both the book and movie versions of The Grapes of Wrath. But to my knowledge, no Route 66 road or tourism material mentions any of it, even in passing. In 25+ books, many promotional publications, and travel websites The Grapes of Wrath is simply the saga of the fictional Joad family in the Dust Bowl.
A westbound trip on today's Rt 66 with its dramatic changes near the end could take on a great deal of additional meaning for Christians, especially those who read and contemplate the novel.
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This may read like veiled Bible-thumping but my religious views are not expressed here, I'm simply respecting the faith of others. And wouldn't this "Do Unto Others" novelty be nice if it caught on? Amen and A-MEN!
Government is properly barred from promotion of this kind, so the burden falls on individuals, associations, businesses...and religious groups.
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THE UNLIKELY ICON
Cruising Route 66 in a 1957 Chevy...the road and car that have come to symbolize the 1950s.
Too bad the story is hopelessly jumbled, with this pretty picture adding leaded fuel to already-bad history. In 1957 both road and car had become outdated and ready for replacement. The Route 66 story is told elsewhere on the site. This is a companion tale about the car.
Today's pop-culture iconography gets it seriously wrong. The 1957 Chevy wasn't the best-selling vehicle of the 1950s--that was the 55 Chevy. The 57 Chevy wasn't even the best-seller of 1957! What the 57 Chevy was...was a solid disappointment.
While low-price rivals Ford and Plymouth unveiled all-new sheet metal that year, Chevy was still peddling the 55 body, warmed-over for a second time. GM made more profit that way.
Because of its advanced age the 57 Chevy was taller and boxier. And attempts to freshen it were odd. The his-and-her hood rockets. The now-famous fins with chrome on the edge and (on top models) anodized aluminum along the sides.
The 55 and 56 Chevies had rounded pubescent fins with tail lights built into the top corners--a safe, pleasing, logical arrangement. But on the 57s, the larger pointed fins were empty, and lights were way down in separate chrome pods near the bumper. Motor Trend panned the strange design as a safety hazard:
"The new low-set tail lights, smaller than most, do not give adequate protection against rear-end collision."
They also looked like aftermarket parts: open mouths contorted in sadness. We now have emojis like them. The combo of big empty fins with separate little lights was awkward at first glance, especially against the "clean" look of rivals.
Plymouth was the low-price styling leader that year with a windswept design ending in towering fins filled with lights. Ford was low and modern with graceful canted fins next to large round lights. Chevy was trying to pass off a two-year-old car with a pointed but pointless fin as brand-new.
Or just maybe, possibly, not.
Chevy stumbled badly in 1957--and that makes what happened later so fascinating! For the model year, Ford jumped to #1, Chevy fell to #2. Plymouth cruised from #4 to #3, passing Buick. The earth moved under Detroit when sales were tallied.
On the basis of market share (which adjusts for changing economic conditions), the 56, 58 and 59 Chevies were bigger hits with the public than the 57. So what happened to create iconic status today for a car that was an instant retro-ride for buyers and a setback for GM?
First, failures by the competition. The Fords were attractive and contemporary but Motor Trend found "startlingly bad" build quality. They rusted and had doors that could fly open on bumps. The Plymouths (as noted in an essay below) leaked in the rain, fell apart, and rusted prematurely. They were some of the worst cars ever produced--and that's saying a lot!
The Chevies lasted if they were reasonably cared for. Things fit and worked because many proven components carried over from high production in 1955 and 56. This parts availability also meant the 57s could be owner-maintained and later restored.
Second, wacky styling for several years afterward. It would be 1962 before Chevy offered a clean design. And longer still before anybody's family-hauler rivaled the tri-fives (55, 56 and 57) in value, respect, and loyalty.
The 57 Chevy looks much better in retrospect. The design was odd then--but not today--because we're used to it. We've seen the future and it's nothing like what anybody envisioned in 1957...in sheet metal or anything else. Plus, unlike the main competition, it was a solid car. Chevy delivered value that year.
To paraphrase William Faulkner: 57 Chevies did not merely endure, they prevailed.
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A follow-up: Detroit automakers lost their way in the 70s, and GM went bankrupt in 2009. They fully deserved it--good riddance to them and their anti-American values. The UAW was a willing accomplice and shares the blame. (Today's General Motors is legally a different company.)
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YOU CAN'T GO BACK AGAIN...AND SHOULDN'T WANT TO
Route 66 is being homogenized, pasteurized and sanitized for mass-consumption, both here and elsewhere. I hate to contribute to this dumbing-down of American history--although that's exactly what I'm doing (see above).
Now that Disney has a Rt 66-based attraction in California, here's a reality check to counter the pretty pictures (both still and animated).
Interstate highways, fast food joints, and chain motels condemned today for their boring sameness are actually improvements. We wanted them, we needed them, we got them, and we're better off for them.
Consider the realities of Rt 66 in, say, your new 1957 Chevy:
. Many narrow and twisting two-lane sections were known locally as "Blood Alley."
. The guy coming at you might be legally drinking and driving.
. You sat on a bench seat without seat belts, air bags, or other protection.
. Air conditioning and cruise control were for rich folks driving Cadillacs, not you.
. Open windows brought in noise, dust and insects.
. Trucks and Greyhound buses filled oncoming lanes to the brim.
. A good (but hard) day might be 300 miles (480 km).
Nostalgic yet? But wait, there's more...
. You drove single-file through dinky towns, perhaps behind a string of trucks, enduring 25 MPH zones, parallel parkers, and red lights.
. Although gas stations were branded, clean restrooms--or competent repairs--depended entirely on the owner.
. Every restaurant was different, likely run by a local operator. Every food stop required due diligence, first outside then inside (and a tip was expected).
. Almost every motel was a one-off, requiring you to scrutinize the sign, inspect the room, and haggle over the rate. Motel chains were just starting and toll-free phone reservations came much later.
. Black motorists faced tremendous problems even getting the basics--food, lodging, gas and restrooms. Many businesses openly (and legally) refused to serve them. Entire "sundown towns" were openly racist, warning Blacks not to stay there, or even drive through after dark. "Jim Crow" laws and attitudes were widespread and extended well beyond the South.
Today's self-service gas pumps, McDonald's and even lowly Motel 6 actually represent improvements. If not they wouldn't have spread and endured. I value them for their efficiency if nothing else. I wouldn't want to go back in time--and have to stay there.
Route 66 makes for a great (and multiple-day) theme park experience, minus expensive tickets and long lines. It's wonderful to enjoy the Mother Road...without trucks, Greyhounds, congested downtowns, leaded gasoline fumes, unpredictable food and bad motels.
In other words: without all that ugly reality!
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"FIN" MEANS "END" IN LATIN
Route 66 has its own Monument. Made from steel, it's on the Mother Road in front of the Convention Center in Tucumcari NM:
This is sculptor Tom Coffin's interpretation of a Chrysler Corporation fin...perhaps a 1958 DeSoto. GM and Ford never had a design like this.
You rarely see late 50s Chrysler products (Plymouth, Dodge, DeSoto, Chrysler and Imperial) at Route 66 car shows. They sold just fine, except for Imperial, but they were hastily-engineered rust-buckets. The Walter P. Chrysler Museum outside Detroit tacitly admits this on an overhead sign oddly illustrated with a 56 DeSoto. Problems started with the all-new 1957 models:
"Some sacrifice" indeed! The 57s were a rush job and hadn't been properly engineered. Other accounts have these cars intended for 1959 or even 1960!
When sales soared, quality control plunged with assembly lines and suppliers running flat out. The company paid a price--and buyers paid even more. There was plenty of "sacrifice" to go around:
"The 1957s started to rust within several months of being built--all models, Plymouth to Chrysler. They leaked water on both sides of the windshield posts on all models. Torsion bars broke leaving cars looking like fallen over Towers of Pisa. Upholstery split, seams tore, seat springs popped through, paint flaked off in huge chunks, hubcaps wouldn't stay on, rear view mirrors vibrated, door handles broke with ease, locks froze easily, and interior appliances fell off."
--Curtis Redgap, Insider's History of Plymouth
This was an extremely short-sighted decision, and a Tipping Point in American business. Up until then, Chrysler had been known for solid engineering and boring styling. But suddenly the sizzle became more important than the steak. A 1954 luxury car, the Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe, is at left, while the entry-level Plymouth's top model, the Fury, is from 1957:
Fins didn't last, but Chrysler's newly-found reputation for problems did. Warranties were only 90 days/4000 miles back then--but all the claims helped push "Crisis Corporation" deep into the red for 1958.
"The biggest problem is that (the 57 Plymouths) were the worst cars Chrysler ever made. Quality was terrible so every car they sold made an enemy instead of a friend." --Dave Holls, "Collectible Automobile"
Chrysler entered the 1950s with 23% market share and left it in free-fall, plunging below 10% by 1962. The pattern has continued since then with wild boom-and-bust cycles, near-death experiences, taxpayer-supported bailouts, and multiple foreign owners. Lots of forgettable-or-worse vehicles too: Aspen, Volare, Acclaim, Breeze, Dart, Omni, Horizon, Avenger, Dakota, St. Regis, Sebring, Intrepid. (Intrepid?)
Plymouth, #3 in 1957 behind Ford and Chevy, is gone now. And we can't forget DeSoto either: the Fireflite, Firesweep and Firedome were all burnt toast by 1960 as the brand was extinguished.
The fins that have come to symbolize Route 66 and "America At The Top Of Its Game" actually tell a very different...and very sad...tale. One era had ended and another was underway. From Solid Value to Planned Obsolescence. Steak to Sizzle. American Steel to Rust-Bucket.
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GUILTY, WITH AN EXPLANATION
Some things on rt66pix.com look better than they normally appear.
Take "USA Steel & Rust" from the opening slideshow. Captioning indicates this was taken in strong sunlight after rain. Directional sun creates all-important shadows, moisture creates deep coloring in the metal. On an ordinary day, in ordinary light, the 1929 steel is almost as dull as the paint. And letter "U" is very hard to spot without the shadow.
Many good photographs, both here and elsewhere, take advantage of unusual lighting and/or weather conditions. Many are made within an hour of sunrise or sunset, even if the sun is not in the image. Peak travel time, mid-day in mid-summer, is generally awful for photography--especially on Rt 66 from OK westward. There's just too much sun!
Some scenes change over time or disappear. Take an extreme case--the Sidewalk Highway around Afton and Narcissa OK. During 2011 two things happened: (1) A lovely stone marker was installed describing the pavement's historic significance and (2) Nearly all the historic pavement was buried under dirt and stone, plus crude grading tore up chunks of original asphalt!
So enjoy the pretty marker...because the Sidewalk Highway is now largely a dirt road. (Two images on rt66pix.com were made before the desecration, and "Traffic on Sidewalk Highway" shows a short remaining paved section.)
In a more typical example, the 1949 Nash Airflyte that's the opening thumbnail for the "Rusted & Busted" gallery got hauled away. So rt66pix.com is now showing something that's no longer there. Other things fall down, get demolished or fenced off. Many are hit with graffiti or vandalism. It's impossible to keep up with all of it.
So the plea is "Guilty, With an Explanation" for showing Route 66 and other locations better than you will likely see them. This is neither fair nor balanced...but it can't be helped.
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