The Formica counter is worn, and they only take cash. The ambience is that of a Route 66-era lunch counter. You can almost imagine the truck drivers in plain white T-shirts smoking Camels and ogling the waitresses.

This was the place to stop either before or after their long desert run. In fact it still is. This is the house specialty--a whole bunch of ground beef cooked to order right before you and served with a side of potato salad.